Thuan An village, about 13km from Hue, is situated beside Hue's only notable beach. It's easily accessible – if you're feeling energetic, it's a pleasant cycle ride. The road runs alongside the river past several interesting pagodas and commune houses, and a local market at No village. From there, you cross a bridge to the long sand spit and lagoon where the Perfume River finally enters the sea.

The signs will direct you to the busy part of the beach. Unless you want to eat in one of the many dozens of seafood restaurants, this area is best avoided. It's very popular with Vietnamese people – on public holidays, in particular, a sizeable part of Hue's population heads for Thuan An. The beach disappears under the seething mass of people, and the sea boils with flotillas of 'swimmers' buoyed up by inflated vehicle inner tubes. The sand is dirty, and there's no shade apart from that offered by the